I was very well rested as I stood on the start line of UTMB in the
centre of Chamonix. A full week of no running preceded the start as the family
and I enjoyed a fantastic time at Eurodisney.
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| Lili and Jasper with Pluto! |
An 8 hour drive saw us arrive in
Chamonix on the Wednesday with the race start at 4:30pm on the Friday. The time
in between was spent in the local playgrounds with the children, soaking up the
amazing atmosphere as you walked around the town centre, swimming, and eating
lots of ice cream!
I was really relaxed and thoroughly looking forward to the adventure
that lay ahead. Registration was on Thursday which involved a lengthy wait.
There were 2,300 entrants so it was always going to take some time. The sun was
beating down as Nick Ham
(another fellow Brit and good ultra-runner friend) and I waited in line. The
amazing views of the Mont Blanc glacier and atmosphere made the wait no problem
and I soon had my hands on what is surely the best looking race number (or
dossier as the French call it) out there. It also matched my new Union Jack
Buff that my sponsors had very kindly managed to get to me just the day before
we left England :-) Thanks Buff!!
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| Isn't she a stunner! |
With the unusual late afternoon start Nick and I had Friday to kick
around the apartment, prepare all our gear, have our final meal (sweet potato
and sausages for me) and get to the start for the prerace party-like
celebrations complete with electro-euro-pop blarring out the speakers that were
located all over the centre of town.
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| Nick and I all set to go! |
Dino Ilari (another fellow Brit and friend) and I made our way to the
start line with half an hour to go as the crowds grew. Unfortunately I'd lost
Nick Ham as he got chatting to other British runners in his usual enigmatic
style. It seemed he knew half of Chamonix! We couldn't get to the front but
managed to get down a side street and ease our way into the main pack well
within the top third as other runners were being funnelled to the back. The
countdown to 4:30 heightened the atmosphere further as the music got more
intense and the comparer positively encouraged runners to hold their hands
aloft and join hands in a show of solidarity to the challenge that lay ahead.
It was rocking!!! At 4:28 the famous UTMB music (Conquest of
Paradise - Vangelis) played out across the start and we were set on our way
with emotions running high. Chamonix was positively heaving with adrenaline and
energy as we charged (slowly) through the town. If the rest of the race was as
good as the start then we were in for something very special.
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| The start in Chamonix!! |
My wife and children were able to get a good spot further down the
street as I passed them giving them all a kiss goodbye. If all went well I
would be seeing them again in 35-40hrs time. But I preferred not to think about
that and instead in the words of legend Lizzy Hawker 'stay in the moment'. This
was the approach I would need to take to get through this one and with that we
left Chamonix and headed onwards to Les Houches.
In retrospect it would have been good to know that the next 5 miles were
the flattest we would experience over the next 3 days. I ignored everyone
else's pace and just set about getting into a comfortable rhythm. 3 or so miles
in and Nick caught me up and we chatted about the adventure ahead. I then heard
another familiar voice. It was Chris Howe from Kingston Uni Sports Science
department who oversaw my heat training sessions for WSER. Everyone was on a
real high with expectations of what was to come. The weather undoubtedly heightened
the mood as the forecast for the whole weekend was clear skies and warm. This
is in contrast to the previous three years at UTMB which experienced the worst
mountain weather possible. I felt fortunate and was determined to savour every
moment and make the very most of it.
Les Houches (4.9 miles) was the first water stop as I took the
opportunity to refill one of my water bottles before the first climb and the
frenzy of walking poles begins. I quickly got into a nice comfortable stride on
the climb using my poles to maximum effect and set about making up some ground
on those in front. Climbing is definitely my strength so whilst I would lose a
bit of ground on the flats I passed plenty of runners heading up to the
summits.
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| Climb up from Les Houches (Dino in red just behind) |
I reached Le Delevret in 713th position with 2hrs of
running/hiking under the belt. A quick scan of the electronic chip on the
number and I set off for Saint Gervais which was the first major food stop at
the bottom of the valley. To get there required descending several thousand
feet firstly down some pretty steeply graded ski pistes and then on to a long
series of very runnable switchbacks through the trees that took us all the way
to the valley floor.
Entering Saint Gervais (13 miles) at just gone 7pm was like hitting
party central. There were crowds everywhere cheering and clapping and you could
have been easily mistaken for thinking you were at the finish line. I was in
819th position at this point having deliberately tried to hold back
on the last section and take it easy. The food at the station was a variety of
sweet and savoury. Plenty of French cheeses, salamis and breads, cake, fruit
and hot drinks. I didn’t hang around for the party though and gobbled up a few
snacks, filled by bottles and headed for the next station at Les Contamines. In
my haste though as I exited the station I realised I was poleless as I had put
them down when filling up by bottles. A quick dash back along the entire length
of the station to retrieve them and I was set.
I was moving well and feeling strong. Memories of the next few sections
are few and far between. There were plenty of runnable sections along the
valley floor before we started to hike up with a mix of tarmac to start and then
back onto trail. I made up over 200 places on this section coming into Les
Contamines (19 miles) in 593rd place, and my overall pace was well
below sub 35hrs at this point. I was obviously doing something right, or in
fact was everyone else doing something right whilst I was going too fast. This
thought however didn't cross my mind as my pace felt quite pedestrian with all
the places being made up on the climbs.
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| Coming into Les Contamines aid station at mile 19 |
The miles and climbs continued and I hit La Balme in 527th
place at 10:15pm. 24 miles in the bag with 5h:44m of running. I was covering
good ground with almost a quarter of the race already under the belt. The night
was warm not needing any leg or arm cover even up the climbs at over 2000
metres. There was a little breeze which helped to keep things cool and not get
overly warm from the exertion on the climbs. Throughout the night I struck up
conversation with those that I ran briefly with. It was apparent however that
the French do not speak a lot when running even to their own natives which made
it doubly challenging to get them to speak to me. In contrast British Ultra
Runners I feel like to share the ultra-experience and will happily chat away
for hours to anyone that will listen. For the Europeans it seems to be a far
more solitary experience.
Under torch light you could only see what was immediately in front of
you and thus what we were missing out on was the spectacular views that were no
doubt all around us as we crested peak after peak. The benefit however is that
you weren't witness to just how long the next climb was as you stayed within
your own little bubble of light with other torch beams stretched out for a mile
in both directions. Throughout the night I continued to make up more places
with strong hiking and a minimum time spent at the aid stations. Again in
contrast it seemed that the Europeans would happily spend far longer in the
stations perhaps even 20-30 minutes at every major stop. Did they know
something I didn't or was this just the UTMB way of doing things. My feeling
however was that there is no point exerting yourself up a climb and making up
lots of places only to lose all these places by sitting around and drinking tea
and eating cake. Perhaps next time though ;-)
So I pushed on as it was the only way I knew how and was thoroughly
enjoying the whole UTMB experience. In the first night I didn't suffer from any
fatigue or tiredness whatsoever. I arrived into Les Chapieux (31 miles) in 486th
position at half past midnight. And by Col Chécrouit (45.5 miles) I was up to
397th place at just before 5am. This was suppose to be a water only
aid station but the friendly volunteers had made some homemade snacks. I had
this lovely grilled vegetable tartlet which really hit this spot. It was also
here where I saw my position in the race on the laptop that they had set up on
the table. Kriszti had relayed to me earlier in the race that I was around 800th
but I had no idea how many places I had made up since then. It certainly didn't
feel like 400! With this new information I felt great and bounded down the
trail like nothing could stop me. That feeling was short lived…
The sun hadn't yet risen and the next section would continue all the way
down into Courmayeur in Italy (although at the time I had no idea that I had
crossed the boarder and in my funk it just hadn’t occurred to me). The descent
started off quite gradual but then turned into a very long series of continuous
steep switch backs along a dusty trail that clogged your lungs. This was the
least fun I'd had so far in the race as the switch backs seemed never ending
with Courmayeur getting no closer. Finally though after what seemed like an
eternity we hit the valley floor and ran through the narrow cobbled streets of
Courmayeur towards the aid station (48 miles). Dawn was breaking slowly as I
entered the sports centre to the applause of the wonderful spectators. I was
greeted by a volunteer with my drop bag. Here I could replenish my stocks of
gels, cliff bars, nutella pancakes and homemade energy bar as well as change
into a fresh Buff shirt and socks. I had a spare pair of shoes but there was no
need to change them as the La Sportiva Crosslites were superb! It was the very
first time I had sat down in 13 hours and boy did it feel good. I had forgotten
that I'd also placed a toffee fudge Friggii milkshake in my bag. That was
heavenly! I wasn't in a rush to leave here but went slowly through the motions
of getting all my kit together and back out.
Dawn had finally broken when I exited the building and made my way
through the quiet town and inevitably starting to climb again. Firstly on a
steep road and then onto a never ending series of switch backs that wound up
the trial that went on and on and on. Despite the food I had taken on at the
stop I was still feeling empty and in need of more energy and calories. I took
a stop on a rock about half way up and ate a cliff bar and pancake. At this
point my reserves were now empty and I was eating just enough to continue on
for a while longer before having to refuel again. From here things felt that
little bit harder both physically and mentally, and is really where the real race
began. The first 50 miles was just a warm up.
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| The views made even the toughest climbs a joy (honest!!) |
I made it to Refuge Bertone (51 miles) in 15h:10m which give or take a
mile or so was the halfway point. I was in 386th position which was my
highest placing of the race so far. But it would be fair to say that I was feeling
it just a little, nevertheless I was confident I still had a sub 35hr finish in
me, and doing the maths I had a 5 hour cushion to play with. This wasn’t exactly
my thinking when I rocked up here though… What I needed was coffee and lots of
it! I had two mugs of the black stuff, and some noodle soup too. The soup acts
as a great electrolyte to restore the balance in your body. I was getting cold
though as I sat on a bench in my shorts and short sleeve T chatting to two
local chaps. Seeing this one of them put a nice thick blanket around my shoulders.
What service! I could have stayed there a lot longer as that last 3 mile climb
did take it out of me but this wasn’t going to get me closer to the finish line
so I said my goodbyes and thanks and moved up the trail.
The sun had made an appearance and it was apparent that it was going to
be a warm day. Once I crested the top a little further up the trail it become much
flatter however for the first time in the race I was the one being passed. I
simply don’t run flats well in ultras! If I have a weakness this is it, and I
think it’s down to my lack of flexibility which is made worst when your muscles
tighten after running such distances. And then as you slow and your stride shortens
this shortens your muscle contractions which makes things lock up even more,
and slow down more. A vicious cycle! Subsequently I gave away 80 places between
here and the next station.
The views across the valley though were amazing with the snow-capped mountain
peaks jutting up high into piercing blue skies to my left. I sat down on a
grassy patch by a stream and phoned the wife for some moral support (which
worked :-) I ate some more and headed
onwards to Refuge Bonatti.
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| New Flash: Ultra Disco Stu finds a flat section of UTMB |
I arrived at the aid station at 9:33am after 17hrs of
running and 55.5 miles and got the surprise of my life. As I came up the trail
to the aid station entrance who should be standing there but no other than
Lizzy Hawker!!! 5 time winner of the UTMB and the most inspirational of ultra-runners.
I had only been reading her blog
the day before on her experiences of UTMB and how one should tackle such a race
- 'stay in the moment' was her advice. I gave Lizzy a big hug and told her what
a boost it was to my morale to see her here. My mood was lighter and I was feeling
100 times more positive about the race again. I got a cup of tea and chatted
with Lizzy. I told her how my race was going (which was well up to a point but
I felt the wheels coming off) and asked what advice she could give me to get my
race back on track. She replied 'baby steps' just take each section at a time
and don't look too far ahead. I was buzzing with positive energy from meeting
her and set off up the trail with new vigour and purpose. I caught up with two
French runners soon after who were running a nice even tempo pace that I felt I
could try and match so I just fell in line behind them not saying anything but
matching their every stride. After the loneliness of the previous section it
was nice to have this connection with others in the race again. It helped my
placing too as I stopped losing places and actually made up 5 places arriving
into Arnuva at half ten in the morning in 461th position. I was still in the
top 500 and feeling really positive about my race.
Arnuva (59 miles) was a food stop and was also the last place to fill
water bottles before a big 10 mile section which consisted of a massive climb
up to the top of Grand Col Ferret and then a long gradual descent down to La
Fouly. One volunteer was making it very apparent for the need to take on plenty
of fluids and restock as it was getting really hot out there now. There were
quite a few Brits at this aid station and I sat down next to Simon who looked
like he could do with some company. I tucked into a feast of cheese, salami,
bread, noodle soup and cola and James and I chatted about both our races. James
had had a tough last section and was considering taking a nap in the tent set
up with lots of beds. I didn't think this was a particularly good idea and
suggested instead he may like to tag on with me. At first he wasn't keen and
even suggested he was considering pulling out the race such was his pace but I
just said that’s what you have to expect after almost 100km of very tough mountain
trails. We chatted some more, ate some more and as I started to get my gear
together to head out for the next section James said that he was coming too.
Awesome I thought. James wasn't the only one in need of company and with that
we started the long climb up Grand Col Ferret. It was a monster climb taking
the best part of two hours to cover 3 miles. However it didn't feel so bad as we
chatted for most of the way up and we also bumped into another Brit Sarah who lived
out in the mountains in France and commented that she enjoyed listening to our
banter.
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| James and I on the climb up to Grand Col Ferret (but didn't see any!) |
We finally reached the top after midday and admired the amazing views
back down the valley before the descent to La Fouly. We were in 490th
position now and getting on for 20 hours of running. Our progress was slow in
this section but still enjoyable nevertheless. By the time we got to La Fouly
(67.4 miles) we both felt pretty wiped out. We took the time to refuel taking
on board more noodle soup, cheese, salami etc. Have you spotted the pattern
yet!! J It was apparent from
looking around the aid station that many were feeling the same fatigue. I also
met James' girlfriend Karin at this stop who was supporting him throughout the entire
race by getting the bus to every aid station to be there when he arrived. She
would be out there for the same amount of time as it took for us to complete
the event and with the same lack of sleep! I could tell it was a boost for
James to have her there and in a way we formed a team of three now that James
and I had committed to crossing the finish line together. So the pattern
emerged that James and I would just focus of getting through the next section
whatever it threw at us, get to the aid station to meet up with Karin, refuel,
refocus, and repeat. Simple!
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| The long descent to La Fouly |
We left La Fouly in 602nd position and were still just under
35hr pace, and continued to Champex-Lac which was another monster 9 mile
section. Between here and the finish every section seemingly contained a climb
and descent bigger than the last. This made for very slow going.
We were now out of Italy and into Switzerland and there was a notable
change in the scenery with the typical Swiss log cabins scattered on the green
mountain sides. To stay focused and not lose too much time now that we were
pretty much hiking, James suggested that we use each of the UTMB course markers
which were literally every 50 metres along the entire route to run between and
then walk the next - much like a Fartlek session but in slow motion. So this is
what we did running between two markers then walking the next and repeating. It
kept us occupied and moving forward with a new found purpose. The climbs
continued and probably the most mentally tough period was coming up which was
running into the second night of the run. As mentioned before I didn't suffer
from any fatigue during the first night and was wide awake. Arriving into
Bovine aid station after 9pm it was now dark and they had a fire roaring. This
was a non-refreshment stop and was only there to scan our racing chips. We had
now been running for almost 29 hours and it was officially my longest run! The
total height gain since the start in Chamonix to this point was 7,748 metres which
is like climbing to the summit of Everest from basecamp and back down, almost
twice! For James too he was into completely new territory. His longest run had
been 80 miles of the Ridgeway ultra which he completed in around 17 hours. UTMB
was his first 100 mile ultra, and at this point he'd already been on his feet
for 12 hours longer than his previous longest run. That’s either very
impressive or just plain daft… you decide! I know he’ll read this so thought I’d
throw that in. lol.
We were now at the business end of the race now. We knew we had a long
night ahead of us but both of us were still not willing to acknowledge just how
much time it would potentially take us to cover the remaining 20 or so miles.
If someone told me at Bovine that we would be running for another 13 hours I
think it would have been too much to bare. Damn… I’ve just given away the end
;-) But seriously that’s an average speed of just 1.5mph (or 40 minute
miling!!). And trust me when I say we were trying!!! Our strategy of just
focusing on the next section and taking 'baby steps' (quite literally!) was working.
We were moving forward and however difficult the struggle was becoming to stay
focused and reach the top of the next climb the end was getting closer.
I think I will save you (“the reader”) from going into chapter and verse
about the never ending night section. It can instead be summarised with the
following which describes the next 10 hours of running before the sun came up
for the third day of this epic run: rocks & roots, bright stars & moon
light, extreme fatigue & emptiness, long long long descents & never
ending climbs, camaraderie & laughter, chocolate & cheese, noodle soup
& hallucinations, new friendships & bonds, heaven & hell. And then
finally out of the darkness and into the light!
But just before we get there… We reached Vallorcine at just gone 4am
after 35 hours of running. With a little
over 10 miles to go this was the first time where we perhaps allowed ourselves
to think about the finish. Up until this point it just seemed too far away but
now it was getting closer and soon the new dawn would break. This didn't
however mean that the hard work was done and in fact the final major climb of
850 metres of vertical ascent up La Tête aux vents was the most dramatic and
toughest of the entire race. This was partly because I was by this point almost
sleep walking using my poles to guide me forward as I staggered and swayed up
the trail. I was now on autopilot and felt like a passenger in my own body with
little control over my movement as I floated along at a snails pace. Baby steps
baby steps was all I was capable of by now. James by contrast seemed more with
it at this point and led the way up the climb. We eventually made it to the top
taking almost 4hrs to cover the 5 miles. An hour longer than my marathon PB to cover
just 5 miles! I’m not sure this was running anymore but it was a beast!
I can't miss out and should add that on our way up the final climb one
Mr Nick Ham came hiking past us looking fresh as a daisy and still sporting his
ultra-short union jack shorts! There was hardly any time for pleasantries as
Nick carried right on whilst I had stopped to refuel. I hoped to catch him by
the top but on this kind of terrain a 5 minute gap is nearly impossible to make
up easily. The descent down to La Flégère (99 miles) was another rock strew
trail with lots of hopping over boulders and tentative positioning of feet and
limbs as we picked our way down. By now however the sun was out and a new day
had broken. Our slow pace had long since been of any cause for concern or
anguish. Our overall placing too was something we had also surrendered long ago.
By this point we had a vague idea of being in the top 1,000 but this detail was
unimportant. All we cared about was finishing the UTMB. In fact this was the
only thought that had been carrying us forward for the last 20 hours. It was
survival.
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| About to get "chicked" on the descent to La Flegere |
James and I high-fived as we passed the 40 hour mark in our epic run.
Neither of us honestly expected to be still out running at this point in the
race. Earlier on when I was going great guns I had plans of being back in the
apartment and tucked up in bed by 3am and here we were gone 8am and still
moving towards the finish. The final hours were easier going and mostly flat or
downhill. However downhill in UTMB at this stage of the race or in fact any
stage still required a tremendous amount of focus to stay upright, maintain
good footing and avoid any silly mistakes. I managed all three! My friend Dino
also came past us on the descent from the last climb. Like Nick he was moving
well and enjoying his race. I think he could hardly believe that he had caught
me. At 30 miles into the race I had held over a 2 hour advantage but that time
had since evaporated.
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| The end in sight and a little more cheery! |
The finish was now within touching distance. The last aid station at La
Flegere was perched at the top of a chair lift which came up from the valley
far below. And in the distance we could see Chamonix which was less than 5
miles away now. This was all that stood between us and finishing what was undoubtedly
the toughest run of my life (yes, way way tougher than Western States by a
mountain mile!). We found our legs again and managed a good clip down the side
of the downward piste. The pounding of the quads was of little concern anymore
as there was no need to preserve them now. Off the wider piste and we were back
onto narrower trails with the all too familiar roots and rocks. However nothing
could spoil this moment as we edged our way closer and closer, down the trail
losing height with every step. We came back out of the woods and onto the wider
piste/trail that marked the final run into Chamonix.
And whilst I can scarcely remember the exact point where we left the
trail for the last time we entered the outskirts of Chamonix at the foot of the
mountain. It was now just gone 10am so there were plenty of people about
cheering us along in our final mile through the town. A few lefts and few
rights and we saw the familiar sight of the ice blue river that passes right
through the centre. We followed it along with less than a 1km to go. I was just
running along trying to absorb everything that was happening. The emotion, the
smiling faces, the shoppers, the warmth of the sun on my face, and the
finishers proudly wearing their UTMB Gillets that had probably long since
finished!
We entered the final twists and turns of the course where barriers had
been set up to funnel you to that well known of sights that is the 'UTMB
finish' in front of the church. The moment I had dreamed of. 25 yards before
the finish Kriszti was there by the side with Lili and Jasper. It was so good
to see them again. Daddy daddy shouted Lili as she spotted me and I waved to
her with the biggest smile on my face. I was so proud of them as a wave of
emotion hit me. Running is just running but family is everything and they were
here for me for my moment. And that is why it's a memory to cherish forever.
Memories and experiences that are shared makes them 100 times more valuable,
and this is why it was so special to share this race with my family, as well someone
else alongside me in James. We approached the UTMB finish arch with our arms
held aloft to the warm applause of the crowd. It really did feel like we had
just won the race. You really won't find any other finish line atmosphere quite
like it anywhere else in the world. And that was it. We had finished the UTMB
crossing the finish line in joint 950th position after 41h:47m:09s. It was
finally over and it felt AMAZING.
I stood there for just a moment trying taking it all in, in one of those
movie like moments where the past 24hrs (in our case nearly 42hrs) flashes
through your mind in an instant. My mind wandered before a volunteer brought me
back into the present and gave me the coveted UTMB FINISHER Gillet. Mission
accomplished. I was not going to stop until I had this in my hands and with
that I could close the book on one hell of a chapter in my ultra-running
career.
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| Nick and I sporting our matching finishers UTMB gillets (and shorts!) |
My thanks also to my sponsor Buff who provided me
with some great race kit that performed superbly in the mountains. I just wish
it was a bit colder so I could have used my Buff Gore-tex integrated hood.
Perhaps next year ;-)
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| Post-race recovery at Passi lake south of Chamonix! |
